Talents: Isabelle Albuquerque at Midland, Anyiel Majok at PRM and Elise Crombez at Tess
Photography: Alice Neale at Artistry Fashion: Brian Molloy
Hair: Naoki Komiya at Julian Watson Make-Up: Niamh Quinn at LGA
Set design: Hella Keck at Webber Casting: Ben Grimes Production: the.CURATED
KWAIDAN EDITIONS AW22
Press and Studio Assistant
Léa Dickely and Hung La consider their new Kwaidan Editions collection a reset. Having built a reputation for pop colors, they stripped most of them away for fall. Instead, they pursued a monochrome look, in shades of beige, gray, and black. But if this was a collection of mostly neutrals, it wasn’t neutered. The strain of kink that underlines their work has started to attract the attention of likeminded creators—the artists Isabelle Albuquerque and Heidi Bucher were on their moodboard, and they name-checked Louise Bonnet. Reset or not, they’re doubling down on their trademark sense of provocation. A new logo, jacquarded onto pencil skirts and knit into fine gauge sweaters, was lifted, Dickely explained, from ’70s packaging of bedsheets, of all things. And there was more latex than ever: for shirt-and-tie kits (sold together), blazers and maxi skirts, and a thicker version that they printed with a wallpaper flower pattern and cut into a trench.
At the same time, they’re exploring other textures. A month ago Dickely and La launched the new label Lu’u Dan; it explores Asian masculinity through the lenses of Japanese street photography and Hong Kong crime films, among other things. Its more accessible price point and focus on menswear has freed them up to explore more precious materials here, including the fuzzy alpaca of a tailored coat, flocked jersey on second-skin turtlenecks good for layering or going solo, and floral printed velvets. “We dug into luxury,” Dickely said, “and we wanted a high level of craft.” A light blue pantsuit puts the spotlight on their craft; it’s sharply cut, with strong shoulders and a shaped waist on the double-breasted jacket with leg-elongating trousers. It’d make an excellent gallery opening look, though Albuquerque, whose work has such carnal overtones, might prefer a latex shirt dress with built-in bra cups. (Review by Nicole Phelps British Vogue)